For the first time in ages cross-country flight beckons…round the Birmingham Zone counter- clockwise in a Grumann AA5. Lunch at Halfpenny Green, Wolverhampton, before returning to EGBW. Wellesbourne to the uninitiated. Of course there are cross-countries and cross-countries…
….c.12 years ago. 6.30am pre-flight of a PA28, 5B-CFZ, at Paphos Airport, Cyprus. Parting wisdom from Augostinos such as the requirement to carry a mix of Dollars/£ Sterling etc.,liquids,ham rolls & toothbrush. Beirut the destination in a single engine aircraft over a lot of water. It was an opportunity to be taken which might never come again even if a touch foolhardy. Lift off c.7am for the short hop to Larnaca for a fuel top off which took 20 minutes and a raft of paperwork which in true Eastern Mediterranean fashion took an hour plus. The weather was gin clear, the climb to 5,500′ and level off in the cruise uneventful. Fond farewell to Larnaca Radar and a ‘speak to you later’ said with just a tad more meaning than usual. Settling down for the flight, chomping on a ham roll washed down with cold coffee, optimism was high. The flight itself need not detain us aside from the onset of ‘dead butt’, need to fly on the AI as sea/sky merge & plenty of leg stretching.Not forgetting adaptation of empty coke bottle. Nearer to two hours than one and a half later…old log book not to hand…thoughts turned to Beirut, contact & descent. By now the sun well up and a thick haze along the shoreline to be expected. Natives had my flight plan & v.helpful re. heights/headings/expectations & yes, haze band would need to be penetrated. On the way down city visible & airport to the south of it.
I well remember that haze or rather the emergence from it…popping out, with the city laid out below & a little time to reflect. The opening shot of Ridley Scott’s,’Blade Runner’, hit me straight away!! O.K., daylight, but the mix of buildings still standing & blackened ‘holes’ & by now viewing all this from 1,600′ I will never forget. For the first time anxiety just crept on to my radar. However, no time to dwell. An arcing right turn onto an extended final, pre-landing checks to do and thoughts also turning to a washroom.
The landing uneventful, the runway vast. No ground control hand off so if in doubt taxi to the end & hope someone says something by way of instruction along the way! No communication so hauled off at the end, miles from anywhere at the apex of the two main runways. It was bloody hot so popped the door for ventilation. Now what? Ago’s last words came booming back. ‘Peter, my friend, your trick will be to get out of there.’ Engine still running & temp gauge on the move. Try as I might no instruction from any frequency. Even the,’I'm a stranger to these parts, request progressive taxi’, of no help. Stopping short of an indication as to where one might find a spot of tea & a cucumber sandwich I was finally told to stay put as troops on their way! A whole truck load emerged from the shimmering heat, pulled up in front of the aircraft & proceeded to surround the area. A shambolic lot they were too. Shades of Che descending from the Sierra Maestre in Cuba…guns slung over shoulders, ammo belts displayed at random. Officer walked round, mounted the wing and shouted a ‘follow me’ order. Fine, no argument there. Off we went for a trip round the airport which lasted an age. Ended up alongside a squat building near the base of the ‘Tower. Not a plush Terminal in sight…or Loo. Shutdown complete & armed with paperwork, passport & envelopes of currency the next stop was the office of Airport Security. Spartan it was too, large man with much braid & many medals…not to mention gold on his fingers & round his neck….had me sit down in front of his desk. What was point of departure & destination? Mind if we search your aircraft? Passport. This crossed his desk with $50 dollars inside it. He never looked at the detail of the passport, just slipped the money under his blotter. Stamping a form which was clipped into the passport he returned same & said with gold-laced smile,’Customs’. And so it went on via a ‘roach infested loo. Did I wish to visit the City? ‘The Paris of the East’ I could spend one hour in the terminal! Ah, now this appealed with the prospect of grub. Accompanied by a spindly youth toting two sidearms like Clint on a bad day a search of the Terminal began. This revealed one cafeteria selling two items: coke & crisps. I sincerely hope things have changed since then.
It was wise to watch the refuel…credit card accepted & more hard cash for the Manager, if you wanted to be filled up TODAY. By now the focus was on ‘getting out’ as soon as decently possible. Then to the Control Tower for more stamped forms & cash gifts. Here at least there was a steakwich of animal unknown…tasted great…& guest radar show of the afternoon flight of two Syrian Migs along the southern border of their airspace. Timely reminder not to venture north in a PA28 of Cypriot origin. In fairness the Tower crew were kindness personified & pointed out that all other aspects of the airport were controlled by the Army. With progressive taxi now given and winds now favouring a westerly runway the departure was uneventful. Never looking back the climb to 6,000′ over & heading set there was plenty of time to do the Math on just what this flight had cost. Larnaca laboured the paperwork again & light fading fast as Paphos hove into view. Straight in approach, past those two Shackleton wrecks, & there to greet the wanderer the ubiquitous ‘Ago’. More concerned for his old PA28 than the pilot, there was at least no hint of a weapon, no need of $/£ or even any sign of a Replicant!!
Blade Runner is a great Movie. Best seen, day or night from the sofa in your own living room…
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